Ticoz Latin Fusion: A Phoenix Restaurant Row Gem
By: Brian Garrido
Latin cuisine varies, as does the Spanish language, based on its origin – meaning that there are great differences, but with marked similarities. Cuban food has a lot of braising and Argentinians are known for their expert grilling. Thankfully, variances make the world go round and at Ticoz, the almost eight-year-old restaurant located on Phoenix’s “restaurant row”, is a showcase of continental Latin cuisine from Cuba and South and Central Americas. It has a healthy dose of Mexican cooking, but features some traditional sauces and cookery from other Latin-speaking areas such as Costa Rica, Cuba, El Salvador and others.
Blue Corn Enchiladaz
A little more than six years ago, brother and sister Susan and Joe Wilson, purchased the existing Ticoz Latin Kitchen. At the time, the eatery was steeped in Costa Rican food, hence the name Ticoz. (The word tico is a colloquial term for a native Costa Rican.) Now the duo, along with their chef de cuisine Susana Diaz, have created a unique Latin American eating platform which is defined in their words as “Latin fusion”. It’s an interesting twist – and can lead to some confusion for the customer; but overall the tastes and menus are winners.
Interestingly, both Wilsons have a very long history in the restaurant world. Susan worked for Houston’s for more than a decade, and Joe worked with Restaurant of Americas, breweries, and many others food-related companies before buying Ticoz. Its clear their longevity with Ticoz is based on previous successes and that they have created a family atmosphere for the customers, as well as the staff.
Pork Chili Verde Mac n Cheese
Diaz, along with Sous Chef Caren Gerard, a graduate of the Arizona Culinary School, has perfected a few of the traditional Mexican sauces. The tomatillo sauce is an example of this. Normally, there is a bitter aftertaste to a tomatillo but with Diaz (who uses many of her family’s own recipes – she was born in Veracruz, Mexico to a Cuban mother and her father was native to the coastal state) she has dispatched the harsh, sour flavor. Using her family’s directions, the sauce is rich and luscious with a bit of viscosity, clinging to housemade chips and dishes.
The Cuban side of Diaz is found in side dishes with sofrito rice and beans. Sofrito is the combination of cilantro, onions, garlic, and red peppers made into a paste. It’s added to a number of dishes in Latin America, mostly in Cuba and Puerto Rico. With her deft skills, the vegetable paste is aromatic and light, keeping the house rice from becoming clumpy.
Ticoz’s signature dishes – Tamale Stuffed Pork Chop and the Blue Corn Enchiladas – are purely Mexican. The roasted pork chop stuffed with savory masa and served with the tomatillo is definitely the more creative dish. The enchiladas are stuffed with braised pork and topped with a blend of cheeses. The shredded meat is succulent, not dried out from the second round in the oven.
Ultimately, Diaz’s food is superb. It’s appealing and rustic. Should Diaz choose to enter a few of her sauces into contests, she could win awards – especially with the tomatillo sauce. Apparently, she is humble and isn’t that interested in the notoriety. Ticoz is an unpretentious neighborhood eatery serving up delicious Latin fusion food with a solid cocktail bar. But the restaurant’s wealth lies in Diaz.
Ticoz Resto – Bar
5114 North 7th Street
Phoenix, Arizona 85014
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