The Mother of All Sauces: Where to Find the Valley’s Best Moles
By: Brian Garrido
For Mexicans, mole is the madre of sauces. In “gringo” restaurants, with its earthy hints of unsweetened chocolate and chiles, it’s typically found on the dinner menu; but in truth, the gravy is served for breakfast, lunch and evening meals – especially during special and festive occasions.
According to legend, mole originated during the 16th century in the state of Puebla, at the Convent of Santa Rosa. There, a group of poor nuns expected a rare visit from the area’s archbishop to their modest house of worship. Pulling together the regional food from a meager pantry – which included indigenous unsweetened Mexican chocolate, chili peppers, cumin, oregano and other spices – they made the mole. Served with their last remaining turkey (sacrificed for the visiting dignitary), the sauce was ladled over the roasted bird. Of course, the cardinal loved the dish and when asked what was in it, the nuns replied, “un mole” which means “mix” in ancient Spanish, a word rarely used today.
Outside of Mexico, mole poblano is typified as traditional. However, further south, Oaxaca is known as the land of seven moles, which consist of mole negro, coloradito, verde, and others.
Making the savory condiment is laborious, grinding its twenty-plus ingredients and then simmering into a thick, delicious staple for hours. When made right, it has an amazing flavor with a smooth balance of sweetness, heat, and earthiness combined all into one.
We’ve saved you trouble of searching and have compiled a list of our favorite mole served at all times of the day, just to get your fill.
Asi Es La Vida
At this charming family-owned restaurant, housed in vibrant colors throughout the years (currently it’s decked out in purple) – guests can enjoy the establishment’s nearly famous mole at lunch and dinner. Enmoladas (chicken enchiladas, $7.95) are smothered in powerful flavors early in the day; and for dinner, over deliciously roasted chicken or pork – your choice ($15.95). Service is unpretentious, the food is delicious, and the atmosphere genial.
3602 North 24th Street
Phoenix, Arizona 85016
(602) 955 – 2926
www.asidelavida.com
Perk Eatery
Owned by couple Paula and Carmen Martinez (she’s from Detroit, he’s from Mexico), here you’ll find a New Mexican chile mole that’s ladled over their roasted pork enchiladas. Watch Paula over on the Food Network. It’s a complicated affair with lots of simmering, blending, rubbing and roasting; but the result is a sweetly, heated dish topped with two eggs that balances it all out deliciously. Not traditional, but definitely enjoyable – it’s perfect for a hangover brunch, or something robust after an early morning hike. ($14.99)
6501 E Greenway Pkwy
Scottsdale, AZ 85254
(480) 998-6026
Talavera, Four Seasons Scottsdale
Mexican can be a fine dining experience as much as any European cuisine. It can be as complicated as an Italian bologonese, or a French bordeliase. It takes a lot of finessing to make a truly authentic and refined mole as it can become a bitter reduction. At Talavera, award-winning Executive Chef Mel Mecinas, who was born and raised in Oaxaca, crafts a superb traditional mole negro – probably the best this side of the border – consisting of nearly a half dozen types of dried and fresh peppers. Almost black in appearance, he spoons the rich, velvety Oaxacan mole over a Bacon-Wrapped Buffalo Tenderloin served with Foie Gras ($52). It’s the perfect fusion of the old and the New Worlds.
10600 East Crescent Moon Drive
Scottsdale, AZ 85262
(480) 513-5085
La Santisima Gourmet Taco Shop
Chef Christina Guzman, a native Mexican, make a delicious traditional mole poblano, which is poured over her tacos or burras. The food is home-cooking at its finest. Here, you can find the burras and omnipresent tacos, but true south of the border quesadillas are served. Like empanadas, they are stuffed, fried, and then coated with a particular sauce – and in this case, the down-to-earth tastes of Mexico.
5932 West Glendale Avenue
Glendale, 85301
(623) 939 3292
www.lasantisimagourmettacoshop.com
El Conquistador
Because it takes so long to make, El Conquistador serves up their mole poblano only on Tuesday – but you can still get the enchiladas on Friday. That’s correct. If you want a little heat and sweetness to help cool you off in the desert, it’s only available two days of the week. The self-proclaimed Jalisco-style eatery serves the sauce on chunks of chicken and a side of tortillas. Or come on Friday, when you can get the chicken enchiladas; but only after the birds have marinated for a couple of days in mole. Either way, the room is awash in festive hues – whatever you eat, you will feel as if you stepped into a slice of Mexico. That’s a good thing.
13216 N 7th St, Phoenix, AZ 85022
(602) 493 – 3913
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