Our 5 Favorite Valley Queso Fundidos: Touches of French to Traditional
By: Brian Garrido
A recent big-time food magazine heralded the return of a Tex-Mex favorite with Southern celebrity chef, Sean Brock’s Queso Fundido. Had the publication come to Arizona, they would have noted the cheesy dish was already popular and served regularly in many well-known Valley restaurants. For decades, Phoenicians and those in neighboring communities have piled dollops of the rich gooeyness onto tortilla chips, pan, or ladled into a freshly made tortilla.
Created by Tejanos more than a century ago, queso fundido is typically made with Oaxacan string cheese, Chihauhau or other mild white queso – and on occasion, with a combination of both. In many restaurants catering to a mix of both gringos and Latin Americanos, Monterey Jack and mozzarella is used. Baked in an oven-proof dish such as a small cast-iron pan, the cheese melts down into a delicious puddle. Chefs creatively garnish the creamy Tex-Mex fondue with a variety of items from spicy chorizo, roasted chili verde, rajas, or ground beef. Choosing something piquant helps cuts through some of the fat, giving the foodstuff a balance of creaminess and heat.
Ultimately, there is no right or wrong or bad queso – it’s only bad if you don’t eat it. We picked our favorites in the Valley. Pair it with a margarita, cocktail, or house sangria and have a delicious time.
QUESO FUNDIDO SPOTS:
Sierra Bonita Grill: At this decades-old Phoenician restaurant, the chef prepares classic Latin dishes such as carne asada tacos and norteamericano favorites with a Southwestern touch, such as your choice of green or red chile mac and cheese. At Sierra Bonita Grill, queso fundido is served fresh from the oven in a blistering cast-iron pan. Lightly browned on top, it’s bubbling with a smattering of housemade chorizo for added zest, and tortilla chips.
Barrio Café: Chef Silvana Salcida Esparza crafts her queso fundido with classic, gourmet French touches. The James Beard-nominated chef roasts poblano pepper with spinach and mushroom, and then tops the vegetables with queso de cabra and Oaxaca string. It’s then finished with crema de jocoque (a form of sour cream or buttermilk), longaniza, and avocado. Muy bueno!
Ricky’s Tacos & Beer: Noted Scottsdale bar, serving up a boat-load of cerveza on tap and in bottles, has a delicious and extensive menu. While sitting watching a game in the cavernous room with a bunch of amigos, the fundido is Tex-Mex at its finest: piping hot Asadero (a form of Oaxacan) and mozzarella, chorizo, and roasted Anaheim peppers. Served with homemade flour tortillas for rolling your own.
Fiesta Mexicana: In Chandler, the Rangel family serves up delicious Jalisco and Tex-Mex antijitos, entrees, and margaritas in a lively and family-fun atmosphere reminiscent of their former home. There are other Arizona outposts as well such as Page and Lake Havasu. The fundido at this closest location is a massive serving; but instead of chorizo, it is made with ground beef and peppers. Awesomeness!
Los Sombreros: Enough to feed an army or Latin family, Chef Azucena Tovar creates a variety of queso fundido with many native Mexican ingredients at her charming Scottsdale restaurant. Guests can choose vegetarian with rajas, huitlacoche or spinach; or they can add some chicken, crab, or shrimp for a change from the traditional chorizo. The price varies according to the ingredients, so feel free to create your own. Not familiar with some of the ingredients? Ask for a tasting; the kitchen at this independent restaurant is very accommodating.