Latin Fusion: Our Food is Everywhere
By: Brian Garrido
Since the 15th century, there has been a long relationship with the Latin world and this side of the Atlantic. Even though much of it is marred by turmoil with the indigenous people from all over the Americas, what prevails is a mixing of rich cultures – especially in food.
And Phoenix, much to the deep-rooted chagrin of the old world mentality, has been a portal for Latin flavors rising up from our southern neighbors – not only from Mexico, but Ecuador, Spain, Cuba, Venezuela and Peru all have some sort of Hispanic influence in the Valley. Mostly, this is due to Arizona being the last of the contiguous 48 states to enter the Union. It’s only been a hundred (and two) years since the territory entered statehood, so continue proudly as a bed of caliente comidas.
The Valley is a home to Spanish speaking cultures and flavors – from fast food franchises to independent eateries – our ingredients are fused in a multitude of global tastes and used in combination with international flavors. So, we’ve compiled a list of some of the more remarkable flavors at some truly unique restaurants to rest our case and our taste buds.
The Henry – Quinoa Tacos (Ecuador, Mexico)
Billing itself as the great American neighborhood restaurant, this Sam Fox concept is a showcase of the diversity of the United States. On the Anglo-sandwich side of the menu are the Heirloom Quinoa Tacos ($11). The South American grain found in the Andes Mountains of Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia, Colombia and Chile, dates back three to four thousand years ago. The chefs at The Henry, with its New England-like atmosphere, take the nutty-like cereal and place it in house-made tortillas, smashed avocado, a dose of queso fresco with a little pickled onion. It’s the taste of South America, wrapped in Central America, and eaten in the states – with a bit of yum.
4455 E. Camelback Road, Phoenix, 85018
(602) 429 – 8020
Bootleggers, Modern American Steakhouse – Southwest Steak Tartare (France, Mexico)
At this hipster version of the American steakhouse, diners will find all sorts of culinary references to Latin America. From the chunky guacamole starter to quinoa in the beet salad, Hispanic ingredients abound on their menu. However, the Southwest Steak Tartare is primarily a French concoction from the early 20th century – with toasted pepitas (pumpkin seeds) and cilantro (Mexico’s ubiquitous herb), giving it that international appeal. ($16)
Old Town Scottsdale
7217 East 1st Street 85251
(480) 404 – 9984
Two Brothers Taphouse & Brewery – Chimchurri Steak or Nachos (Argentina, with a dose of Italy and Mexico)
Nothing pairs better with a cold beer from the Mid-West-based craft brewery than their lively sauce of herbs, garlic and vinegar. An Argentinian condiment, chimichurri is served on the side as an accompaniment to grilled steaks and beef. At the ale house in Scottsdale, eaters find it on the nachos ($11) along with the traditional toppings of black beans, cheese and pico de gallo. The all-American Niman Ranch, purveyors of top grade steaks, is decorated with the herbal sauce. It’s a tangy tango that meets the New Republic. ($17).
4321 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale
(480) 378 3001
Sumo Maya – Crispy Pork Belly Benedict (Japan, France, Mexico)
Since it’s opening, Sumo Maya – although a concept restaurant – is a melting pot of flavors and an indicator of its owner, German Osio, and his global travels. On Sunday, the French eggs benedict is shaken up with a chunk of Asian pork belly (bacon), combined with that famouse Mexican avocado dip, guacamole, and finished with a hollandaise made spicy from the addition of Valentina hot sauce. It’s like all the locals of a James Bond movie wrapped up in a single dish. ($14)
6560 N. Scottsdale Road, Scottsdale 85253
(480) 397 – 9520
Adobo Dragon at DeSoto Central Market (Asia and Central, South America)
Filipino chef Allan Inocencio created one of the definitive Phoenix fusion restaurants with his kiosk of Latin meeting Asian. At this quick service restaurant (with a full flavor experience), all of Asia and Latin America play their part in the young cook’s dishes. Tasty examples range from a chicken bao (rice bun) with chimichurri ($9.50) to a Japanese vegetarian bento box with a potato enchilada ($10.50), the Hispanic culinary world is fused with the edible international stage.
915 N. Central Ave #109-B
Phoenix, AZ 85004
(602) 842-269